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> Transgo Shift Kit Install instructions, In car, by the DIYer.
jz57
post Aug 18 2005, 03:24 PM
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QUOTE(dservati @ Aug 8 2005, 09:36 PM)
Just like J said removing the passenger cat exhaust bolts and manifold stub bolts provides tons of access to the trany and that lumpy thing on the side thing a ma jigger. biggrin.gif
[right][snapback]46841[/snapback][/right]



I removed all big parts around tranmission passenger-side, cat-converter, heat shield, cooler lines, now I try to press the servo cover down, it is so difficult that there is no way to use a pry bar since all pivital points are gone, except to buy a $200 GM servo cover comreppsor.

Jesse

This post has been edited by jz57: Aug 18 2005, 03:44 PM
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LS1_MM6
post Aug 18 2005, 04:21 PM
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Pry off of the inside of the transmission tunnel.

Gary
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sherlock9c1
post Aug 18 2005, 04:31 PM
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Jesse, are you pressing the cover down to remove or replace the servo? You should not need to press it down to remove it - just stick a screwdriver in the slot and tap it with a hammer and then work the ring loose.

Yes, it is a bear to get the servo cap back on, but it can be done without prying. I've done it by hand on a workbench without special tools. If you have room for a fairly stout screwdriver, you can also get the servo cover 95% in there, then push the retainer ring on with one hand, take your other hand and put the screwdriver tip on the ring, then hold the ring on with the screwdriver while you grab a hammer and pop the ring the rest of the way in while driving the piston along with it. Not very fun, but worked for me.

This post has been edited by sherlock9c1: Aug 18 2005, 04:32 PM
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dservati
post Aug 18 2005, 09:52 PM
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QUOTE(LS1_MM6 @ Aug 18 2005, 04:20 PM)
Pry off of the inside of the transmission tunnel.

Gary
[right][snapback]47283[/snapback][/right]



Yeah - what Gary said - take a large scredriver or hefty pry bar - place the tip above the tranny against the transmisson floor tunnel, while positioning the shaft of the prybar on the tip of the servo cover. Push the bottom of the handle towards the driverside and with other hand insert clip ring, give one last big push on the prybar's handle to ensure the clip ring is engaged in the retaining groove using the blade of a small screwdriver.

Removal is similar positioning of pry bar but you use the blade of the scredriver to slip the retaining clip out of it's groove.

- That's how this newbie did it and it worked for me - arms were sore for a few days but I'm a 43 yr. old newbie!!

-Dave
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jz57
post Aug 27 2005, 10:36 PM
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Finally, it is done. The retainer ring of servo cover was removed. Since almost every thing around passenger-side transmission were removed, even transmissoin oil filler tube. There is no pivital point for a pry bar at all except passenger-side floor pan/tunnel. I tried using pry bar against floor pan/tunnel and top of the cover, the cover did not move at all, instead of a dent created on the pass-side floor pan under the pressure of pry bar.

What I did is a hint from Joel, hammer. Instead of knocking a screw driver to get access retainer ring slot, I used a small hammer tapping on the top of the servo cover surrounding the retainer ring, the cover recessed a little enough to release the contact tension between the ring and cover. Since all the parts (cooler lines, cat coverter, heat shield and filler tube) were removed, swing a hammer is possible.

Then a thin flat head screw driver finished job without hammer knocking.

The simple GM tool in the posted picture costs $200 from internet order, the price is so expensive, maybe it is patterned, and the sale quantity is very low due to the ring could be removed without that special tool.

Joel, you may add the picture and my personal experience to your update instruction, make it a complete version.

Thanks for all people's input and help.


Jesse



****************

Pry off of the inside of the transmission tunnel.

Gary

********************

Yeah - what Gary said - take a large scredriver or hefty pry bar - place the tip above the tranny against the transmisson floor tunnel, while positioning the shaft of the prybar on the tip of the servo cover. Push the bottom of the handle towards the driverside and with other hand insert clip ring, give one last big push on the prybar's handle to ensure the clip ring is engaged in the retaining groove using the blade of a small screwdriver.

Removal is similar positioning of pry bar but you use the blade of the scredriver to slip the retaining clip out of it's groove.

- That's how this newbie did it and it worked for me - arms were sore for a few days but I'm a 43 yr. old newbie!!

This post has been edited by jz57: Aug 28 2005, 01:37 PM
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jz57
post Aug 28 2005, 01:48 PM
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Ater retainer ring was removed, the next panic is removing cover. I bought a new large channel lock, tried every effort to turn/remove the cover, the cover did not turn 1 degree at all. Spray PB Blaster, nothing happeded, used a hammer tapping the cover, no lock.

The cover is still there.

The cover design is not sophisticated, if the top of the cover is hex-head instead of round-head, the removal job will be much easier.


Jesse
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sherlock9c1
post Aug 28 2005, 07:04 PM
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Did you get it far enough out to cut the o-ring with a razor knife and then pull it out with needlenose pliers? Yes, the cover is a bear to remove and will fight you all the way. You can also try cleaning the grit out from around the edges with a toothbrush and degreaser, brake cleaner or WD40.

FYI to all reading this thread - I am continually updating the original post as more people email me or share their experience to save you the trouble of reading through all the posts during the install.
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jz57
post Aug 28 2005, 09:22 PM
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Joel,

The cover dose not turn one degree at all no mater what effort I did. The rubber O-ring far inside beyond visiable.

The channel lock is brand new, PB Blaster was sprayed, the channel lock scratch is all over the top of the cover. Look like there is some rust aound cover edge.


QUOTE(sherlock9c1 @ Aug 28 2005, 07:03 PM)
Did you get it far enough out to cut the o-ring with a razor knife and then pull it out with needlenose pliers?  Yes, the cover is a bear to remove and will fight you all the way.  You can also try cleaning the grit out from around the edges with a toothbrush and degreaser, brake cleaner or WD40.

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sherlock9c1
post Aug 28 2005, 10:07 PM
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They get like that. I had one on the workbench recently that really fought me to get it off. Keep trying.

If you have compressed air, the other trick you can do is find the 4th or 2nd gear apply feed hole on the case side of where the valvebody bolts on and stick an air nozzle against the hole. Gently feed it some air pressure and that should pop the servo cover loose.

This post has been edited by sherlock9c1: Aug 28 2005, 10:08 PM
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jz57
post Sep 12 2005, 01:54 AM
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The servo cover was finally removed with hammer, small screw driver, wire cutter and Channel Lock.

The reason that the cover was so difficult to remove was the mistake I made while I tried to remove the retainer ring.

While I was removing the retainer ring, I used a hammer taping the cover near lower slot only, so that the cover was recessed in tilt position and there was a gap between the cover and retainer ring after the cover moved inward. The gap made the retainer ring being removed very easy.

But the cover in tilt position made the rest of removal job more difficulty, the cover was in stuck situation. With the members in this forum?s suggestion, I used a hammer taping the cover evenly, made it recessing to the end, plus plenty WD-40, then a Channel Lock finished job. While the blue O-ring was visible, used a small screw driver hooking the o-ring out, and cut it with a wire cutter.

Thanks for all inputs.

Jesse
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sherlock9c1
post Aug 1 2007, 09:01 AM
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Just an update since I don't currently have editing privileges. These are some things I've been seeing a lot of lately:

1. It is an almost universal occurrence in these cars nowadays that the EPC filter screen in the separator plate is not only clogged, but torn open and leaking crud down into the EPC solenoid itself. Closely examine the screens on the EPC solenoid itself; if they have any debris on them, I strongly recommend not only getting a brand new filter screen from the GM dealership, but replacing the EPC solenoid. Yes I know, the EPC solenoid isn't cheap, but it's cheaper than a new transmission down the road.
2. As these cars are getting older, it's becoming harder and harder to remove the valvebody without tearing the separator plate gaskets. If you tear yours, just suck it up and get new ones.
3. It is almost universal to find a checkball stuck in the separator plate, or at least really close to doing so. If it hasn't already pushed through, the separator plate can be repaired using a repair sleeve. Most transmission shops will stock it and can probably fix it for $10 or less, but if you can't find it, contact me and I can send you one cheap. Additionally, the sleeve prevents future wear from ever happening. The alternative is to replace the checkball with a .265" checkball (originals were .250") but that's just delaying the problem IMHO.

Local transmission shops are another good place to get 4L60E parts; EPC filter screens, solenoids, separator plate gaskets, etc. Just call and ask.

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sherlock9c1
post Nov 30 2007, 03:43 PM
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Another FYI. The TransGo orange box shift kit for the 4L60E (4L60E-SK) is an absolute waste of time and money. First off, it doesn't include a boost valve which I consider mandatory maintenance at higher miles, and even after everything is said and done, the shifts are hardly improved. In fact, the light throttle 1-2 shift is much too harsh afterwards. And this is after doing just as much labor as the HD2 kit. So, if you're going to do it, do it right, buy the blue box. SK stands for SKIP.
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dservati
post Nov 30 2007, 08:00 PM
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Hey Joel -

The one I installed a few years ago as this on the UPC label 4760E then " 7 19950 10005 9 " first and last numbers were small and on the left and right side of the UPC rest where large numbers.

Box is HUGE but black with Yellow letters - the manual states 4L60E - series C Summit part # TRG-4L60E

Did I get an okay version?
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sherlock9c1
post Dec 2 2007, 09:26 PM
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Most likely; the difference in box sizes alone is a good indicator. Did you have to put a boost valve in the bottom of the front of the transmission with a snapring? That's the easiest differentiator.
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dservati
post Dec 2 2007, 09:44 PM
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sounds familiar - is it that part that is about 2-3 inchs long that falls down when the snap ring is removed?

Anyways it's been working fine for a few years now...
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