Fogged Up Windshield Options

[twotonsofsteel]

OK so the front windshield of my wife's 99 Blazer (if I had the money for a new truck I would personally crush this fracking thing) is fogged up, and won't clear with the blower going full blast. So I added Barrs and ran it for 45 min. Hoping against hope the heater core if there is a small hole will seal. I take it for a test drive, and crack the window on a rainy cool New England evening and Pow fog is back. I am praying 2 or 3 cycles of running to temp while blowing will possibly evaporate and residue fluid left in core/blower area.

Who thinks what? I would ask on a Blazer site but have yet to find one that is as active, with knowledgable guys as here on Inegma. If her Blazer puts my wagon on the back burner again I will not be happy.

[LS1_MM6]

Your choices (as I see it) are eitehr the heater core is weeping coolant, or the AC is not working.

[Heavy Chevy 95]

I have to agree with Gary.
Your heater core sounds like a it could be contributing to your windshield fog.





I'm wondering if there is excessive moisture inside our older vehicles that we drive.

I'm driving a 1995 Chevrolet right now.

Seal around windshield ?
Damp Carpet from the wet season or Holes in the floorboard allowing water inside.

Wutz

.

[Wild Willy]

Can you smell coolant in the vehicle? I have had better luck with the alumna-seal product rather than the Barr's stop leak.

Bitch to get at that heater core, I bet- Gary helped me do the blower motor on my S10 Blazer, and it involved removing the inner fender liner, and some creative cutting- not easily serviceable-

[twotonsofsteel]

With time being at a premium, I pulled the lines off the core, and butt connected them together. So there goes the fog, pray for a few warm weekends to give me time to tackle the job.

PS Wutz I would say Body Holes! After I fixed the rear quarters on the wagon I have been a winter with no ice inside the windshield in the AM, and little or no fog on crappy days.

If anyone is interested when I pull the core I can post some pics.

[dservati]

With time being at a premium, I pulled the lines off the core, and butt connected them together. So there goes the fog, pray for a few warm weekends to give me time to tackle the job.

PS Wutz I would say Body Holes! After I fixed the rear quarters on the wagon I have been a winter with no ice inside the windshield in the AM, and little or no fog on crappy days.

If anyone is interested when I pull the core I can post some pics.

Yeah please do - my wagon smells like it's gonna need one this season - thanks!

[sherlock9c1]

One other thought - if the heater core is plugged, the lack of heat will cause condensation buildup in the interior pretty quickly. My 9C1's heater core clogged again about a month ago and that car turned out into a fogged-up greenhouse in a few days. Flushed out the heater core, and I was able to dry out the interior almost immediately.

[twotonsofsteel]

I thought of that. I bought 2 plastic containers of the stuff you use of moist basements. Opened the vents to heat, put one on each side of the hump and it sat for 2 days. So far so good. It has behaved when my wife needed to drive it. I am really not looking forward to this, but there is no way I can pay someone per hour for it. I am sure it would be an all day repair. Just curious, anyone have access to a repair rate book, (blanking on what they are called)? How long does the magic repair bible/rate book quote for a heater core in a 99 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4?

[LS1_MM6]

According to my Chilton Labor Guide:

1998-2004 S/T Series Blazer, Sonoma

w/AC 6.2 hours or 7.1 hours (severe service)
wo/AC 5.0 hours or 5.7 hours (severe service)
w/floor shift add .3 hours

[twotonsofsteel]

with those times, and having never done it before I am betting on an 8am to 8pm day LOL

[Wild Willy]

It's not too bad, once you bite the bullet and remove the battery, front wheel, and fender liner- nice piece of work there for GM's engineering

[twotonsofsteel]

remove the battery, tire & fender....EXCUSE ME

Update OK I read the manual and it does say to do those things for 98>, but I don't have the 98 core, I have the 97, (ther pipes come out at diff angles) with any luck I will only have to tackle the dash. I will pray to the GM Gods before bed tonight and post more tomorrow.

This post has been edited by twotonsofsteel: Oct 30 2009, 08:47 PM

[twotonsofsteel]

Well I got the dash totally removed Sat, and yes I have to cut the firewall etc. I was going to finish up Sunday, but to add to my pain I damn near broke my wrist Halloween night almost tripping over a toddler. It's one of those sprains you wish you had broken. I am going to have to ask my mechanic to step in and finish. At least get the core replaced and dash reinstalled. If I have to I can deal with the light stuff.

On a lighter note I loooked at my balljoints on the wagon for the yearly inspection & both uppers need replacing. They are the original rivited ball joints!! How is that possible? The worst part is the cotter pin can not be removed. It is so caked in dirt grime rust etc it is flat with the castle nut, and no matter how I try to push it out it won't go. Anyone have any tips. Also on the wagon the 3rd brake light is out. No one has the 577 bulb I need. No one can even get it. I am going to have to mail order it!! Ah well whats another Failure Inspection Sticker.